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I was speculating that my bandsaw tension spring had died here recently (Delta 14"), and after some reinforcing backup from Todd Stock, I got a replacement Carter spring from Woodcraft. Has anyone had a problem with these springs being too short? The spring doesn't take up tension until the tension indicator is already up past the 1/8" mark.

This doesn't mean that the spring isn't able to eventually tension the blade, but it sure is out of calibration with the tension marks on the machine. jtkirby39053.8637731482

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

Todd - Thanks for that clue, that makes sense.

JK

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

Jim, I was recently looking for guide bearings for my Rockwell 10". There is a website that is usually called "Servicenet" by woodworkers (link) that has parts for the most popular tool brands. I posted my question about servicenet to a woodworking forum here
and got some good responses about servicenet. I plan on ordering soon.

Oh and BTW they have manuals as well.nathan c39054.4527430556

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nay

My blogs
Hand Made Gutar
Woodworker++

Todd...I have some questions about a used 14" Delta (with riser block) that I bought some months ago.

The tension indicator (red mark) is not visible and I've been tensioning by feel... once the blade produces a ringing tone when snapped, I stop tightening. I know that this could be problematic and wanted to get some advice.

Where "should" the red mark be located? Right now, the 1/8" mark aligns about midway along height of the nut at the bottom of the yellow spring. This is with a 1/2" wide x .023" kerf blade. I'd be surprised if I stumbled at the proper tension but wanted to get your expert opinions and guidance. TIA.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Newbie question. What exactly does "resaw" mean? What about barrelling?

Thanks, Todd. Great info! Just what I needed.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Todd
Any experience or opinions on the larger Grizzly bandsaws in the 18 or 20 inch range. I'm looking to replace my worn out 14" import with something a little more heavy duty to do some resaw work.
Thanks
Bob

[QUOTE=ToddStock] Good questions...

Resawing is just that - taking a relatively thick board and cutting it into thinner slices. Imagine the wood is 36" long, 8" wide, and 3/4" thick. With careful sawing, we can get four pieces that are still 36" x 8", but now each piece is only .130-.140 or so thick... perfect to use for backs and sides after a bit of sanding or planing. In the pic below, each larger piece of stock is cut into these thinner pieces - a board that started out 12' long x 10" wide x 5/4 thick wound up yielding 12 side sets and 9 back sets - about $15/set for some lightly figured bubinga from a local Woodraft.



Barrelling occurs when resawing with a blade that is not properly tracked or tensioned...the blade describes a curved path down through the wood that can look a bit like the shape of a barrel. Not good - wastes wood and is tough on the blade as well...tension and proper tracking takes care of the issue.

[/QUOTE]

Thank you.